Engine Build Specs
Ring gap by bore size, ring order, valve lash, cam timing, and the three mistakes behind most post bore kit knocking. Plus every TBparts install PDF in one place.
Ring End Gap
By Bore
Four thousandths per inch
Four thousandths of an inch (0.004 inch) per inch of bore is the standard TBparts uses on every piston ring kit it sells. Square the ring in the bore with the piston, measure the gap with a feeler gauge, and check it against the chart.
- Too tight and the ring can seize in the bore as it expands with heat, which is catastrophic piston failure.
- Too loose and you lose compression, which is horsepower, and the engine burns oil.
- Stagger the gaps. End gaps must not line up with each other. Space them evenly around the piston.
| Bore | Inches | Target gap | Safe range | TBparts kits at this bore |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 39mm | 1.535" | 0.006" | 0.0055 to 0.0065" | Stock bore, Z50, XR50, CRF50 (49cc) |
| 47mm | 1.85" | 0.0074" | 0.007 to 0.008" | Stock bore, CT70, XR70, CRF70 (72cc) |
| 50mm | 1.97" | 0.0078" | 0.0075 to 0.0085" | Stock bore, CRF110 (109cc) |
| 52mm | 2.05" | 0.008" | 0.007 to 0.009" | TB 88cc kits, Z50, CT70, XR50/70, CRF50/70 |
| 55mm | 2.165" | 0.0086" | 0.007 to 0.009" | TB 132cc kit, CRF110; TB 138cc kit, CRF125 |
| 55.5mm | 2.185" | 0.0087" | 0.007 to 0.009" | TB 130cc kit, TTR110 |
| 58mm | 2.28" | 0.009" | 0.008 to 0.010" | TB 147cc kit, CRF110; stock bore, KLX140 |
| 60mm | 2.36" | 0.0095" | 0.008 to 0.0115" | TB 143cc kit and 155cc stroker kit, KLX110 |
| 62mm | 2.44" | 0.0097" | 0.009 to 0.012" | Daytona 190 four valve, stock bore |
| 63mm | 2.48" | 0.0099" | 0.009 to 0.012" | TB 170cc kit, KLX140 |
| 64mm | 2.52" | 0.010" | 0.009 to 0.012" | See your kit listing for the bore size |
| 67mm | 2.637" | 0.010" | 0.009 to 0.012" | TB 178cc kit, KLX110 (55mm stroker crank) |
Five Rings.
One Order.
Bottom groove first
Every TBparts ring set installs the same way, bottom groove first. Rings installed in the wrong order or upside down is one of the three installation errors TBparts sees most, and it shows up as smoke and low compression on a brand new top end.
Before they go on
Gap each ring in the bore first (chart above), then install. Once the rings are on, rotate them so no two end gaps line up.
Two Numbers,
One Direction
Some valve tick is normal. That gap is the clearance the valve train needs once the engine reaches operating temperature. Recheck lash after the first session on a new top end; tight valves after break in look exactly like a jetting problem.
Line up the 0 on the cam sprocket with the mark on the head, and confirm the lobes face down toward the piston at that moment. Combined with the crank timing mark, that is the whole procedure. A cam installed lobes up runs, and knocks loudly, until it does not.
The Three Mistakes
We See Most
TBparts lists these three as the most common installation errors on its bore kits and clutch kits. None of them is a parts problem, and all three show up as noise or smoke that gets blamed on the carb.
Cam in upside down
What you hear: loud knocking right after the cam went in. Runs, but sounds like a hammer.
Fix: when the 0 on the sprocket meets the head mark, the lobes must face down toward the piston. Pull the cam cover and look.
Clutch nut not torqued
What you hear: knocking that gets worse, then spline damage. Often after an oil pump or clutch job.
Fix: it gets tightened after the oil pump goes on, with a clutch nut socket. Not a hammer and a screwdriver. Ever.
Rings on wrong
What you see: smoke, oil use and soft compression on a brand new top end.
Fix: follow the five ring order above, markings up on the top ring, and stagger every gap.
Stroker cranks install exactly like a stock crank. Use a Clymer or Honda shop manual for the case split; the TBparts PDFs below cover the top end and clutch.
Every TBparts
Install PDF
These are the notes and photo sheets TBparts has written for its own kits. They are a help, not a substitute for a Clymer or factory shop manual, which every builder should have on the bench.
